Cappadocia, the egg yolk smack in the middle of the fried egg that is Turkey. One of the most unique and stunning regions of the world and I am here to tell you exactly the easiest way to travel there solo or with a partner. But Jeroen, I hear you ask, isn’t Cappadocia like a honeymoon destination, meant for couples to be all lovey dovey and not really meant for solo travellers? Listen, this is a wonder-of-the-world category place and who cares how it is marketed by silly humanity. Go and explore if you want to!
Here’s how to tackle a trip like this. A great place to stay in the region is the small city Göreme. It thrives on tourism and most activities start there. Göreme lies relatively close to two airports and the most convenient one to fly to might be Kayseri airport (it is the one I picked for my trip). Kayseri has a shiny new, spacious airport with various connections to Istanbul. From Kayseri the trip to Göreme is still a little over an hour driving, but almost all hotels in Göreme offer airport pickups. There is a whole industry of airport shuttles to drive tourists from Kayseri to Göreme and cities around it, so just let your hotel make the reservations, and most hotels offer this.
Staying in a hotel in Göreme is great fun too because most hotels there are cave hotels and you’ll be sleeping in a cave room. Their quality is generally high and the proprietors generally very helpful. So, using an airline like Turkish Airlines, which is more reliable than the handful of budget airlines that also fly the same routes, you have to keep in mind that if you fly into Turkey and have to transfer at Istanbul, that you transfer from an international flight to a domestic flight. That means that you have to go through passport control in Istanbul airport during your transfer and should calculate in some time for that. So, for example, take a flight that arrives at Istanbul during the day, and then a second flight a few hours later to Kayseri so that you arrive at Kayseri and Göreme at the end of the day.
Hotels in Göreme can also arrange activities such as day tours if you don’t feel like renting a car. The tours are so standardised that they are color coded and each hotel can easily book that for you through the about five million tourist agencies in town. I took a red tour and a green tour and that covered a lot of the numerous valleys and canyons. The same goes for balloon flights. Four whole days in Göreme will cover almost everything you’d want to do. As for costs… silly me didn’t look at the conversion rates between Turkish Liras and Euros, so I went to an ATM and put in my card and then saw all those high numbers of Liras and had no idea what they meant in terms of money. To be on the safe side I chose the second lowest number on the machine, 10,000 Lira, which turned out to equate to about 250 Euros and that lasted me the whole four days, including costs for the day tours, airport transfers, lunches and dinners.
There was one thing that worried me before I left: safety. But I felt totally safe. Göreme isn’t filled with touts and scams. Everyone was hospitable. No earthquakes there, nor refugees. The only thing that was a bit worrying is that some areas around the edges of town are taken over by groups of dogs, especially at dawn or dusk. There are panoramic viewpoints where dogs let me know that I was not welcome and I quietly backed off. But that only happened once, really. In the city too, big shepherd dogs walk around but they are very slow and lazy and don’t bother anyone. The region seems very popular among Chinese and Japanese tourists and I saw Chinese waiters and signs translated to Chinese here and there.
The overall experience of the valleys and cave cities is just stunning. The amount of fairy chimney rocks seems endless and often you can just sit and stare forever at the landscapes. One trip encompassed a visit to an underground city, of which there are multiple in the region. For me as a tall guy, it was a claustrophobic experience that I wouldn’t do again. Going deep underground in tunnels were I can’t even stand up is no fun, but it’s interesting enough to see once. A little bit farther away from Göreme lies the Ihlana canyon, a beautiful forested canyon with birch trees and ending at a cloister built into the cliff walls that reminded me of Petra in Jordan.
The balloon ride was worth it too. I had my doubts about this but the experience was far more exciting than I imagined. I was picked up at around 5 in the morning, driven to a little office together with other tourists for a quick breakfast and then we all went to fields outside the city where the balloon are inflated at the break of dawn. As the light slowly arrived, the giant black shapes of the balloons become visible and tension starts to rise that soon you’ll be lifted up into the sky. Surprisingly, no seat belts or safety measures are in place once you stand in the gondola. And since I am tall I was happy to let all the smaller Asian tourists stand at the edge of the basket and I stuck to the middle of it.